Alternative spaces in Paris Region

What’s the point of building spanking new buildings when there are already dozens of sites that have fallen into disuse? In every corner of Paris Region, historic sites that had been abandoned for decades have risen from the ashes through community initiatives. Towns and districts in the region are being brought back to life with innovative and sustainable urban planning projects that have become very much a thing.

A multitude of railway buildings have been resuscitated in this way. At Pantin, the Cité Fertile took over an old SNCF freight station in 2018. The 1-hectare site of concrete, steel and greenery now provides a coworking space, and freelancers rub shoulders with would-be gardeners and fans of local beer, all in a merry, well-organised chaos. Just found some bargains at Saint-Ouen flea market? Continue exploring at Hasard Ludique, which has brought new life to the old station in the 18th arrondissement. After visiting the delicious Cantine de Léon and attending one of the near-daily concerts or a laughter-yoga session, you should be feeling light-hearted by the time you leave.

Administrative buildings are also getting a new lease of life. Near the Gare de Lyon, Ground Control, a 6,000 m² site, keeps the 12th arrondissement buzzing with its festive atmosphere. The former sorting office, one of the first alternative venues in Paris, is a haven of serenity where you can get together with family or friends. Fancy reliving those student parties? Try Césure which has occupied the former Censier campus of the Sorbonne Nouvelle University since 2023. This site is about sharing expertise, advocating solidarity in learning and fighting against insecurity. It has a coworking space and a canteen with a commitment.

Paris Region has many more alternative venues that promise to surprise you. To name but a few, there’s the Moulin Jaune ‘Remarkable Garden’ and its creation laboratory, the Comptoir Général barn conversion and the XXL food court at La Communale, housed in an old factory. All of these history-steeped places have begun a new chapter, much to the delight of those who plead in favour of peaceful coexistence.

What better place than an enormous hangar to enjoy a culinary voyage? Loyal to their global outlook and ambition to share, alternative spaces offer a unique opportunity to sample gourmet delights from across the world. Try French and Palestinian specialities at La Communale, or a typical ‘Ch’ti’ dish from Ground Control. Here, it’s no frills. Instead of small, individual restaurant tables, you’ll sit at a large, shared table to chew the fat around an assortment of Mexican tapas or put the world to rights while sipping a local beverage.

In these alternative spaces, culture is gained, contemplated and shared in every possible form. In most cases, it is even a driving force, as at the CentreQuatre-Paris. This place is a key art venue in Île-de-France, helping new talents to emerge through a daring and innovative programme aimed at a wide audience. A place that buzzes with life… Built on the ruins of the old Paris funeral parlour. Slightly more underground, despite its location on one of the most famous streets of Paris, 59 Rivoli has been a hotspot of urban culture and contemporary creation for over 20 years. Formerly a legendary, self-managed squat, it became less agitated in the late 2000s but has remained as creative as ever.

In an alternative space, nothing is lost, everything is transformed. The REcyclerie is the perfect example. Located on the north side of Paris, this open-air laboratory is all about sharing and helping others, specifically through an eco-responsible approach that includes recycling initiatives.

Some alternative spaces are on a mission to protect the heritage of Île-de-France. This is the case of Cœur Sacré, a stone’s throw from the legendary Sacré-Cœur Basilica of Montmartre, which champions local savoir-faire and French-made goods. Designed to house the 1900 Paris Exposition, this elegant circular building houses creator boutiques, a coffee shop, exhibitions and, above all, a rooftop lounge bar offering an outstanding view over Montmartre.

To venture into an alternative space is to play a part in an ecosystem driven by good humour and a sense of solidarity. The debates, exhibitions and recycling workshops all serve the sole purpose of reaching out to others. The Ferme du bonheur in Nanterre is a bucolic utopia set amid the tower blocks. Besides concerts, a ball and other events that have the site buzzing, here’s a chance to try your hand at urban agriculture. A pioneer in this field, the association Le Champ de la Garde are present every weekend to pass on their expertise to anyone interested in joining this farm project.

Insecurity is the issue tackled by Les Amarres in the 13th arrondissement. Every year, the 4,000 m² site helps more than 80,000 exiled families and lonely people living in poverty. During the day, the associations present at the site offer them assistance in their search for lodgings, the French language and access to basic needs services. Their social justice mission continues in the evening, but in a more festive manner. Drinks are served, the orchestra plays and everyone gets together to set the world to rights.