Paris Saint-Ouen flea market
The iconic Saint-Ouen flea market tells an interesting tale from modern Paris history. In the 1870s, the rag-and-bone men who collected bits and bobs from the capital’s streets to sell on their rounds were chased from the city centre. Relegated to “the zone,” the uninhabited wasteland around Paris, they decided to set up a market – and Saint-Ouen was born.
Between bric-a-brac and fashion
Today, you can visit no less than fourteen markets here, each with its own distinct identity, grouped like neighbourhoods in a village that marches to its own beat. Open to the general public from Saturday to Monday, it is reserved for professionals – antiques dealers, bric-a-brac sellers, decorators and architects – on Thursdays and Fridays.
You can also visit the flea market by wandering randomly through the maze of flowered passageways and covered alleys. For decorators and international gallerists, the Paul Bert-Serpette Antiques Market is an unsurpassed source of material and inspiration. Its little rows of houses teem with chic addresses that make it a must for Parisians on Sunday outings. At the centre of the Dauphine Market, specialised in pop culture, comics, books and vinyl, don’t miss the Finnish architect Matti Suuronen’s surprising Futuro “flying saucer”, which seems always just about to take off.
The original Saint-Ouen vibe can be found at the Jules Vallès Market, overflowing with textiles and vintage clothing, decorative trinkets and vintage haberdashery. As you walk around, you’ll also see plenty of unofficial traders with job-lots of bargains as well as trend-setting concept-stores. Saint-Ouen is the spot where fashions are made and unmade.
A Parisian spirit
Whether you want to splash out or are simply curious, don’t hesitate to ask stall holders and dealers questions, and engage them in conversation. They’re used to it – and often have juicy anecdotes to share!
When hunger strikes and the streets start to empty, try the cuisine and colourful ambiance at one of the restaurants peppered around. Influenced by Django Reinhardt, the Rue des Rosiers has a wide variety of eateries set to the sounds of gypsy jazz. Inside the labyrinthine markets, you’ll find trendy bistrots like Ma Cocotte (106 rue des Rosiers) and old school French eating houses, with checked table clothes and accordions playing nearby, for a meal with real Parisian flavour.
Access and contact
Days and opening hours
Every day throughout the year between 10 AM and 5.30 PM. Closed Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday.
- Car park
- Pay car park
- Pets welcome