Weekend around an artist’s house: Alexandre Dumas and the meanders of the Seine

Following the success of The Three Musketeers and The Count of Monte-Cristo, Alexandre Dumas was finally able to afford the house of his dreams. On the hillside in Le Port-Marly, where your walk begins, he had the Château de Monte-Cristo built, surrounded by a landscaped garden. A Renaissance-style architectural folly just as extravagant as its illustrious owner! The adjacent Château d’If, a Neo-Gothic château surrounded by water, where the prolific novelist liked to shut himself away to work, is an architectural gem. Have fun finding the titles of his works engraved in the stone, along with representations of his greatest heroes, including the famous Edmond Dantès, the Count of Monte-Cristo himself!

Alexandre Dumas’ swashbuckling sagas were inspired by stories from the royal court. Just a few kilometres south-west of his property, the charming village of Marly-le-Roi could have provided him with a more-than-suitable backdrop. It was here, on the edge of vast hunting forests, that Louis XIV would come in search of peace and quiet, far from the pomp and intrigue of the Château de Versailles. Take the time to stroll through the delightful grounds. While today only a few vestiges of the château built by Jules Hardouin-Mansart remain, including the famous Marly Horses, the Musée du Domaine royal de Marly brings this grand yet intimate building to life. During your visit, you can experience the solar eclipse of 3 May 1715 in the company of the king himself, thanks to virtual reality. It couldn’t be simpler!

Among the four “Chemin des Impressionistes” walking routes, you can follow in Monet’s footsteps: head to Bougival, where Berthe Morisot lived, and as soon as you arrive, abandon your car and set off on an hour-and-a-half’s walk studded with reproductions of works that the most famous Impressionist of them all painted here. You will also admire landscapes immortalised by Renoir and Berthe Morisot, from the Pont de Bougival to the Île des impressionnistes in Chatou, stop off at the Musée de la Grenouillère, and stroll down the riverside at Croissy, nicknamed the “Riviera of the Seine” with its incredible houses: a Swiss chalet, an Arabian-Nights-style palace, a Palladian villa…

On arrival, soak up the open-air-dance-hall vibe and relive the gold era of boating and Impressionism with a visit to the Musée Fournaise.

It was in Chatou that Renoir painted the famous Luncheon of the Boating Party at the Maison Fournaise. Settle in for dinner on the wrought-iron balcony immortalised by the painter, and enjoy a moment of bliss with the Seine at your feet.

Keep a little room for your lunch, however. Restaurant and tearoom La Fabrique de Louise offers home-made sweet and savoury delicacies to eat in or take away. All the ingredients are fresh, organic, seasonal, and served in recyclable or biodegradable containers.

The Domaine de Saint-Germain-en-Laye, with its Grande Terrasse designed by André Le Nôtre, its unimpeded view over Paris, its 40 hectares of gardens and its pathways lined with centuries-old lime trees, has become a prized walking spot in all seasons. While you are there, step inside the Pavillon Henri IV, built on the site of the former royal palace. The Sun King, Louis XIV, was born in one of its rooms, now a listed historical monument. Alexandre Dumas, a lover of fine fare, would lunch there.

Step inside the gates of the estate and explore the Forest of Saint-Germain, a former hunting ground for kings and emperors. A 7km walking loop accessible to all will give you a close-up view of the most remarkable sights.